My Intel NUC server just died (whenever it’s plugged in, it makes a buzzing noise, and the external power LED is off (the internal one is on tho)), so I need a new server box. Any recommendations?

I can salvage the RAM (16 GB DDR4) and hard drive (1TB HDD) off of this one, I believe.

  • adr1an
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    1 year ago

    As others just said, take the challenge of repairing or correctly identify what’s broken. It should be fun, and part of the diy ethos.

    If, you are still going for a new piece for the upgrades…

    Depends very much on your scope. Heck, there’s even aesthetics. Do you prefer AMD or Intel? Don’t you feel like having an ARM and take the challenge of compatible images? Would you need to check the transcoding compatibility for Jellyfin? Are you going fangless? Is one 2.5gpbs eth port enough? Etc.

    That said, check the reviews from https://www.servethehome.com/ they have articles with benchmarks and videos for all the latest nucs and other hardware’s form factor servers.

    Be aware that Intel discontinued the NUCs iirc… but Asus or some vendor might have picked up to grab that market segment.

    Good luck!

    • @foonex@feddit.de
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      251 year ago

      Are you going fangless?

      I would definitely go fangless. I have been bitten enough times. A bite might also transfer viruses. Nowadays I defang all my computers.

      • @KairuByte@lemmy.dbzer0.com
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        171 year ago

        Dude, what the fuck. Defanging is so god damn inhumane. If you want a computer without fangs, you don’t want a computer. You want an SBC.

      • adr1an
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        11 year ago

        Actually, only after posting it came to my mind that anyway all intel nukes are fangless. That’s their appeal. So that their bytes leave no marks. Long live the vempire.

    • @Sekoia@lemmy.blahaj.zoneOP
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      21 year ago

      Well, I fully disassembled it, and I’ve found some components that are heating up a lot and probably making the buzzing noise.

      https://files.catbox.moe/6pazjn.jpg

      However I have no idea what they are, if they’re the problem or some connected component. The label doesn’t return anything, so I think this 'uns a goner :(

      • @UltraBlack@lemmy.world
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        11 year ago

        ask a repair shop. Since the label is the same on the other things around it, they could use a parts tester to determine what it is and then order that part. If you’re in luck, that’s the whole problem. If it’s some other component that failed they could still probably determine and fix it

        • @Sekoia@lemmy.blahaj.zoneOP
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          11 year ago

          To be honest, I don’t think it’s worth the bother. This is just an i3-5 something, and I got all the working parts off of it. But it’s good a good idea, thanks!